DOWNTOWN. Chang Sim runs this bento joint, which is <i>the</i> place to check out Portland's political powerhouses when they chow down at lunch, having made their escape from offices in City Hall just across the street. Politicos typically favor succulent chicken entrees for around five bucks, and local <i>Oregonian</i> writers often snoop around the place in hopes of catching wind of political spills.

The decor isn't hip or contemporary, but the Thai food is so authentic that it makes allowances for the nondescript interior. The incredible cuisine is also the reason that the place is so busy, frequented by loyal regulars and a crowd that includes everyone from older folks to young couples with kids. The informal atmosphere and the congenial servers only make the experience that much more enjoyable. Spring rolls are well done, as is the classic pad thai, and the hot-and-sour chicken soup is a taste sensation. You'll also be pleased by the curries and the selection of noodle dishes. Food has a characteristic spiciness, although you can tame it if you choose. The peanut sauce is sublime.

DOWNTOWN. Almost everyone acknowledges that Fong Chong is the top choice when it comes to dim sum in Portland. At lunchtime, in particular, diners descend upon the place to sample these tasty Chinese morsels, and heavily-laden carts wend their way among tables, inviting patrons to select what tempts them most. Smart diners choose several and share them among the group. If you decide to sample other dishes, you'll find fresh fish and a smattering of casseroles prepared in clay pots. Everything is delicious, but it's hard to top the dim sum, especially when you get such a fantastic selection.

Although you'll find a wealth of Japanese cuisine at Koji, it's the sushi that patrons constantly crave. The clean-lined space is warm and inviting, a departure from the expected decor but welcoming all the same. Sushi and sashimi of all types can be had, and the chefs roll it right before you, so you know it's fresh. If you happen not to be in the mood for maki or nigiri, you'll also find large, fragrant bowls of soup, light tempura dishes, teriyaki selections and katsu. Specialty dishes expand the options and change regularly, depending on the whims of the kitchen and whatever's in season.

A strong contender for having the best dim sum in town, Legin certainly offers an extensive selection. The large space comes complete with fresh fish tanks and a wealth of Asian patrons, who validate the authenticity of the cuisine. They sample all the best dishes and even take advantage of such delicacies as chicken feet and sea cucumber. But if you opt to stick to basics, you certainly can't go wrong with shrimp dumplings, spring rolls, barbecue pork buns and savory vegetable dishes. The steamed fish, tender and aromatic, also makes for a terrific choice. Although Legin is usually packed at lunchtime on the weekends, you'll do well if you come early and head off the crowds.